The Art of Washing Raw Denim

Enough tomfoolery, here is a complete guide:

Denim is a staple in the world of streetwear, but not all denim is created equal. Raw and selvage denim, in particular, stand out for their unique qualities and craftsmanship. If you're a proud owner of these types of jeans, you probably know that taking care of them requires a bit more attention. Here's a comprehensive guide on how to wash raw and selvage denim and why it's done this way.

Raw Denim: Raw denim is untreated and unwashed after the dyeing process. This means the fabric is stiffer and darker when new, and it develops unique fades and character over time based on your body and lifestyle.

Selvage Denim: Selvage denim is made on traditional shuttle looms, producing a tighter weave and a clean edge that doesn't fray. This quality makes it more durable and often more expensive than regular denim.

Why Proper Care Matters

Taking care of your raw and selvage denim properly preserves their unique qualities and ensures longevity. Improper washing can result in loss of color, shrinkage, and damage to the fabric. Here's why the washing methods matter:

  1. Preserve Color and Fade: Washing denim too frequently or incorrectly can strip away the dye, leading to a loss of the rich indigo color. Proper care helps maintain the desired fade patterns.

  2. Prevent Shrinkage: Raw denim is prone to shrinkage when exposed to hot water. Specific washing techniques help control and minimise this.

  3. Maintain Fabric Integrity: Aggressive washing can weaken the fibers, leading to wear and tear. Gentle care helps maintain the durability of the denim.

How to Wash Raw and Selvage Denim

  1. Initial Wear-In Period:

    • Before washing your raw denim for the first time, it's recommended to wear them as much as possible. This helps the jeans mold to your body and develop personalised fade patterns.

    • Aim for at least 6 months of regular wear before the first wash.

  2. Spot Cleaning:

    • For minor stains or spills, use a damp cloth to spot clean the affected area instead of washing the entire pair of jeans.

    • Gently dab the stain with the cloth, avoiding vigorous rubbing which can spread the stain or damage the fabric.

  3. Cold Water Soak:

    • Fill a bathtub or a large basin with cold water. Add a small amount of mild detergent specifically designed for dark colors.

    • Turn your jeans inside out to minimise friction on the outer indigo surface and submerge them in the water.

    • Let them soak for about 30 minutes to an hour. Gently agitate the water occasionally.

  4. Rinsing:

    • Drain the soapy water and refill the tub with clean, cold water. Rinse the jeans thoroughly to remove all detergent residue.

    • You may need to rinse them multiple times until the water runs clear.

  5. Drying:

    • After rinsing, gently squeeze out excess water without wringing or twisting the denim.

    • Lay the jeans flat on a towel and roll them up to absorb more water.

    • Unroll and lay the jeans flat or hang them by the waistband to air dry. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can cause fading.

  6. Hand Wash Option:

    • If a full soak is needed, hand washing is a gentle alternative to machine washing. Follow the same steps as the cold water soak but use your hands to agitate the jeans gently in the water.

Tips and Tricks for Maintaining Raw and Selvage Denim

  • Avoid the Washing Machine: Machine washing can be too harsh on raw and selvage denim. Hand washing or soaking is always preferred.

  • Limit Washes: The less frequently you wash your jeans, the better they’ll look. Aim for every few months or when they are visibly dirty.

  • Use the Right Detergent: Always use a mild detergent designed for dark colors to help preserve the indigo dye.

  • Freeze to Freshen Up: If your jeans start to smell but aren’t dirty enough to wash, you can place them in a plastic bag and freeze them overnight to kill bacteria and freshen them up.

Taking care of your raw and selvage denim requires a bit of effort, but the rewards are worth it. By following these steps, you'll ensure your jeans develop unique, personalised fades while maintaining their color, fit, and durability. Embrace the journey with your denim, and enjoy the distinctive look and feel that only well-cared-for raw and selvage jeans can offer.



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